Gauge

Coming soon: How to read Gauge in a Pattern!

0-6 month Some Bunny Loves Me Beanie

We're finally hopping into Spring, and what better way to start off the season but with a FREE pattern! My gift to you this April is a: 

0-6 month Some Bunny Loves Me Beanie

0-6 month Some Bunny Loves Me Beanie

An Original Bunny Beanie

By: Ashley Bower, owner of

Looping with Love

Copyright © Ashley Bower 2014

All Rights Reserved.

Federal copyright law prohibits unauthorized reproduction by any means, and imposes fines up to $25,000 for violation.

This pattern is registered and protected by copyright. All material (including all of the written pattern, photographs, and videos) may not be altered, reproduced, shared, and/or published in print or electronic form without consent from the designer;

Ashley Bower, owner of

Looping with Love.

This material is intended for private use only. Permission to sell and photograph your completed items is granted with this pattern.

  

All techniques and finished sizes are listed in US terminology.

Skill Level: Intermediate

                                                                                    

Materials Needed:

Size 6, Super Bulky Yarn: I used Lion Brand Yarn’s Hometown USA

(OR double stranding Worsted Weight Yarn, size 4, will also work)

N (10.00mm) and P (11.5mm) crochet hooks

Scissors

Measuring Tape

Tapestry Needle

Optional: Floral Wire OR Pipe Cleaners (to create bendable ears)

Optional: Contrasting Super Bulky Yarn – size 6 (to create an inner ear, and hide the floral wire)

Abbreviation of Stitches and Special Terms Used:

Ch/Chs: Chain/Chains

Extended Cross-Over Sc: Extended cross-over single crochet: insert your hook into the stitch indicated, yarn over and pull up the loop to equal height of the half double crochet just made in the previous stitch, yarn over and pull through both loops on the hook.

Foundation Dc: Foundation Double Crochet: chain 3, yarn over and insert hook into the 1^st chain made, yarn over and pull up loop (3 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through the first loop on the hook. Yarn over and pull through the first 2 loops on the hook. Yarn over and pull through both loops on hook.

Gauge: what your indicated worked stitches should measure. This pattern measures gauge straight across the middle (diameter) closed circle of a Round. Gauge is given after Rounds 1 and 2. Make sure your stitches worked are riding stitches to obtain correct gauge.

HDC: Half Double Crochet

Invisible Join:  is used to fasten off the last round of an item, and make it appear seamless to the naked eye. If you have never used this stitch, then refer to my tutorial video here:  

MC: Magic Circle

Rnd/Rnds: Round/rounds

Slst: Slip Stitch

St/Sts: Stitch/stitches

[ X ] #x = work that stitch or pattern a multiple of what the # states. Each stitch that is separated by a comma will be worked in the next stitch.

( X ) = final stitch count for that round

YO: Yarn Over

Where to Find Looping with Love:

v Email: looping.with.love@gmail.com

v  Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Looping-with-Love/166231056772011

v  Ravelry: http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/sources/looping-with-love/patterns

v  Craftsy: http://www.craftsy.com/user/1851358/pattern-store

v  Blog: http://loopingwithlove.blogspot.com/
v Instagram: http://instagram.com/loopingwithlove
 vTwitter: https://twitter.com/LoopingWithLove
v Pinterest: http://www.pinterest.com/LoopingWithLove/

0-6 Month Beanie: With P (11.5mm) Hook:

Measures: 15” in circumference, 5” in length

NOTE:  Beginning chain does Not count as a stitch in the stitch count for the beanie.

Rnd 1: In MC, ch1 and work 12 hdc. Slst in the 1^st hdc to join. (12 hdc)

Gauge: 2” in diameter

Rnd 2: Ch1 and hdc in the Next st. Working in the st just skipped; insert your hook into the st, YO and pull up the loop to equal height of the hdc just made, YO and pull through both loops on the hook: first extended cross-over sc completed. [Hdc in the next open unused st, then in the st to the right (which already has a hdc in it) work an extended cross-over sc]10x. In the slst from the previous round work a hdc, then in the st to the right (which already has a hdc in it) work an extended cross-over sc. Slst in the 1^st hdc to join. (12 hdc, 12 extended cross-over sc = 24 sts)

Gauge: 4” in diameter

Rnds 3-7: Ch1 and hdc in the Next st. In the st skipped, work an extended cross-over sc. [skip a st, hdc in the next st. In the skipped st, work an extended cross-over sc]11x. Slst in the 1^st hdc to join. (12 hdc, 12 extended cross-over sc = 24sts)

Measure of length from the crown to the brim of the hat: approx. 5” long.

Use an Invisible Join to secure the hat, weave in loose ends.

Ears:

Outer Ear (Make 2): With N hook:

Row 1: Ch3 and work 12 foundation dc. Ch 1 and Turn. (12 foundation dc, 3 chs)

Rnd 1: Working on the Wrong Side of the foundation ch: sc in the first 12 sts, work 2sc in the middle of the beginning ch3 from Row 1 (see photo 1), then rotate your work to continue working on the other side of Row 1 and over the beginning tail (see photo 2): sc in the next 12 sts. Rotate the ear again, and slst twice (see photo 3) into the last foundation dc made in Row 1.  Leave a long tail for sewing, and then work 

an Invisible Join in the Ch1 from the end of Row 1. (26 sc, 2 slsts)

NOTE:  If you would rather have ears that bend and/or are able to stick straight up in the air, then you’ll need a small amount of floral wire or pipe cleaners, and contrasting yarn to create an inner ear to attach to the outer ear, and hide the wire.

Inner Ear (Make 2): With N hook and Contrasting Super Bulky Yarn:

Row 1: Ch 3 and 10 foundation dc. Leave a very long tail 15” or more) for sewing and Fasten Off. Weave in the ch tail. (12 foundation dc, 3 chs)

Take your pipe cleaner or floral wire, and measure it out to 10” long and snip off any extra length. Bend your pipe cleaner or floral wire in half, and place it in the middle of the outer ear (see photo below). Then place the inner ear on top of the pipe cleaner/floral wire. So your stitches won’t show through the backside of the ear, I suggest using a mattress stitch in between the outer ear sts and under both top loops of each st of the inner ear.

Attaching Ear Pieces: The ch 3 will automatically curve, that end should be placed towards the top of the ear, and the last foundation dc should be placed at the base of the ear. The wrong side of the inner ear will be facing the right side of the outer ear, so the wrong side of the outer ear will be towards the back of the hat once attached. To avoid the two pieces from moving from where you positioned them, I suggest using stitch markers (lobster claws, bobby pins, safety pins, etc.) at the top and bottom of where the inner ear is to keep it in place. I also suggest using the mattress stitch when attaching the inner ear to the outer ear, to avoid stitching showing on the backside of the ear. Once the base of the inner ear is just above the outer ear’s top loops on the base, start securing the inner ear to the outer ear by sewing through the outer ear’s stitches, and through the inner ear to avoid stitches being noticeable on the backside of the ear.

Attaching Ears to the Hat:  I suggest attaching the ears to the hat while the hat is on a flat surface, like a table.  Find the side creases, and attach the base of the ear to the top of Rnd 2, and to the bottom of Rnd 3 of the beanie.

Enjoy!

Thank you for viewing this pattern by Ashley Bower, owner of Looping with Love!  You may sell any hats made from this pattern, but you may not sell, share, or distribute any or part of this pattern’s written content and/or photos. 

You Must use your Own photos to advertise and sell your items.

When selling your items online, please give credit for the pattern, and link back to Looping with Love at: www.facebook.com/LoopingWithLove

This pattern has been tested to ensure proper fit and gauge. If you notice any mistakes, or have questions or concerns about the pattern, then please feel free to contact me on Facebook, or email me at looping.with.love@gmail.com. 


Happy Hooking :-)

On my Hook the end of April 2014

Currently on my hook is a few different projects. I have a few amigurumis I'm working on. Most y'all probably just read amigurumi and thought, what the __ is that?! Well it's a stuffed crochet animal, doll, toy, etc. Personally, I've never been a fan of them because they're worked mainly in single crochet. For you non-crocheters, a single crochet stitch is the 3rd smallest crochet stitch one can use in a crochet project (the 1st is a chain, and the 2nd is a slip stitch). Not until a fellow hooker reminded me that you need to make sure you're "riding the stitch" while working amis (abbrev. for amigurumis).  Once I became more mindful of how I was working my stitches, and remembering to stuff as I went, I started to enjoy making amis.  In fact, not too long ago I was a tester for Articles of a Domestic Goddess' Meeky Mouse. My daughter just loves her to pieces now - mainly because she was allowed to go into my craft room to pick out her skirt and bow color.  Instead of Meeky, my daughter renamed her to Birdie the Ballerina. Isn't she cute?!

This week I'm also working on another Some Bunny Loves Me Beanie and diaper cover for a baby girl. It'll be another floppy eared one, so instead of blue, think pink!

If you'd like to make the Some Bunny Loves Me Beanie, then head on over to my Free Pattern tab because I just released this pattern at no charge to you :-)

If you'd like to make Meeky Mouse Amigurumi, then head on over to Ravelry.

Girly Drink Cozies

Last summer I developed a "girly" drink cozy. I thought to myself, why should a guy have all the fun with their beer/drink cozies?!  To me personally, I don't find the foam cozies all that attractive, even though they're effective. So I decided to dress up the cozy - Literally! I first made a Dress drink cozy,

and then went ahead and designed a Ballerina drink cozy.

Here we are almost a year later, and I finally have both patterns published now :-)  So I have decided that since these cozies are the perfect way to keep your hand warm and dry while consuming your cold beverage and a fun and unique way to dress up your drink at a picnic, bbq, bonfire, at the beach, party, etc, then I should offer a coupon code honoring the new release.From today until 11:59pm CST on Friday, May 16th, 2014, you can get $2 OFF your total price when you buy both patterns!At checkout, just type in the coupon code: 2DOLLARSOFF. If you'd like to take me up on this offer, then check out my Ravelry Shop!

These cozies will be a great hostess gift of a summer get-together, or for a family Memorial Day and/or 4th of July parties!  So go have some fun ladies; the guys can't have all the fun! Plus this is a great way to distinguish your drink while at a party ;-)

If you like the pattern, then make sure to make it one of your "favorites" on Ravelry.  I'd love to see your finished cozy, so please share your project on the pattern listing or here!  As always, Happy Hooking!

Stacked Butterfly Tie Headband

It's getting warmer, which means girls will be wearing their hair up more.  No one likes those pesky bang flyaways, so you need a thick headband to tame them. It's not a mystery that I have a love for butterflies, so I found it fitting to have my first headband released to be a butterfly one. Introducing the one size fits most Stacked Butterfly Tie Headband.

Thanks to one of my lovely pattern testers, I received some stunning photos of her multicolored butterfly headband.  Isn't it gorgeous?!

This pattern is for an Advanced Beginner, so if you can: chain, slip stitch, single crochet, half double crochet, double crochet, and work in a round: then you can make this headband :-)  

The headband is worked continuously from the beginning of one strap to the end of the second strap.  Here's a preview of my info page to give you a better idea of how my patterns are set up, and what you'd need for materials: 

Get your copy today at my Ravelry or Craftsy shop!

If you like the pattern, then make sure to make it one of your "favorites" on Ravelry.  I'd love to see your finished headband, so please share your project on the pattern listing or here!  As always, Happy Hooking!

May the 4th Be With You!

For all my friends that happen to love Star Wars, whether you consider yourself a geek, a nerd, or neither, this is for you!  After searching around on Ravelry, Craftsy, Etsy and even Pinterest, I couldn't find a single crochet stitch for Lightsaber Freeze/Ice Pop Cozies! A little befuddled by that, since there's an abundance of other STAR WARS items: amigurumis, hats, toys, etc, I decided to create my own pattern, and keep it free to share with all of my fellow hookers :-)

Light Sword Freeze Pop Cozy

All techniques and finished sizes are listed in US terminology.

Skill Level 1: Beginner

                                                                                    

Materials Needed:

  s   Size F (3.75 mm) crochet hook   

  s   Medium worsted weight yarn (WWY) in colors of: black, grey, and red 

(I prefer using Red Heart Super Savers. Feel free to substitute with similar shades, or similar weight yarns that you prefer. Always check gauge if substituting yarn, or hook, to ensure proper fit.)

  s   Tapestry needle

  s   Scissors

Abbreviation of Stitches and Special Terms Used:

• Ch/chs: Chain/Chains  
• Hdc: Half Double Crochet
• Invisible Join:  is used to fasten off the last round of an item, and make it appear seamless to the naked eye. If you have never used this stitch, then refer to my tutorial video here: 

                           

• MC: Magic Circle
• Reverse Slst Join: Reverse Slip Stitch: Insert hook from back to front under both loops of the 1^st stitch made in that round, yarn over, and pull through the stitch and the loop on the hook.
• Rnd: Round
• Sc: Single Crochet
• Slst: Slip Stitch
• St/sts: Stitch/Stitches
• [ X ] #x = work that stitch or pattern a multiple of what the # states. Each stitch that is separated by a comma will be worked in the next stitch.
• ( X ) = final stitch count for that round
• YO : Yarn Over

NOTE:  Beginning chain does Not count as a stitch in the stitch count.

Gauge:  5sc x 4 rows = 1” square

NOTE: I tend to ride my stitch. I use the Golden Loop Method when I work my stitches; which means as soon as I yarn over and pull up that first loop, as soon as it is through the stitch – I Stop; that first loop pulled up in every stitch is critical to your stitch height, and more Importantly: your gauge.  If you find that your swatch is smaller than what the gauge states, then you are most likely a “yanker,” who works very tightly and yanks/pulls on your working end before, during, and/or after each stitch; try working the gauge with a larger hook to help you match your stitch technique with the written gauge. If you find that your swatch is taller than what the gauge states, then you are most likely a “lifter,” and you elongate/raise your stitches’ golden loop height to make it even with your beginning loop on the hook; try working the gauge with a smaller hook to help you match your stitch technique with the written gauge.

An Original Light Sword Freeze Pop Cozy Pattern

By: Ashley Bower, owner of

Looping with Love

Copyright © Ashley Bower 2013

All Rights Reserved.

Federal copyright law prohibits unauthorized reproduction by any means and imposes fines up to $25,000 for violation.

This pattern is registered and protected by copyright. All material (including all pattern and photographs) may not be altered, reproduced, shared, or published in print or electronic form without consent from the designer;

Ashley Bower, owner of

Looping with Love.

This material is intended for private use only. Permission to sell and photograph your completed items is granted with this pattern.

Freeze Pop Cozy:

Rnd 1: With Black WWY, In a MC work: ch 1 and 10 sc. Slst to join. (10 sc)

Rnd 2: Ch1 and 2sc in the same st. [2sc in the next st]9x. Slst to join. (20 sc)

Gauge: approx. 1.375” (1 and 6/16”) in diameter

Rnds 3 & 4: Ch1 and sc in the same st. Sc in each st around. Slst to join. (20 sc)

Rnd 5: Ch1 and sc in the same st. Sc in the next 19 sts.  Reverse Slst join. (20 sc)

Note: You will be changing colors here in a non-traditional way.

Rnd 6: With Grey WWY, slst through loop on hook (ch made), then ch again. Working over the black and grey tails (keep the black in front of the grey), sc into the same st as the join. Sc in the next 4 or so sts. Then pull on the grey and black tails until the little beginning bump of the join disappears, and the color change is practically unnoticeable (see photos below). Continue to sc in each st around. Slst to join. Cut off excess tail ends (20 sc)

Rnds 7-19: Ch1 and sc in the same st. Sc in each st around. Slst to join. (20 sc)

Rnd 20: Ch1 and sc in the same st. Sc in the next 19 sts.  Reverse Slst join. (20 sc)

Note: You will be changing colors here in a non-traditional way again.

Rnd 21: With Black WWY, slst through loop on hook (ch made), then ch again. Working over the black and grey tails (keep the grey in front of the black), sc into the same st as the join. Sc in the next 4 or so sts. Then pull on the grey and black tails until the little beginning bump of the join disappears, and the color change is practically unnoticeable (see photos above as reference - note, the color change will be reverse). Continue to sc in each st around. Slst to join. Cut off excess tail ends (20 sc)

Rnd 22: Ch1 and sc in the same st. Sc in the next 19 sts.  Reverse Slst join. (20 sc)

Note: You will be changing colors here in a non-traditional way.

Rnd 23: With Grey WWY, slst through loop on hook (ch made), then ch again. Working over the black and grey tails (keep the black in front of the grey), sc into the same st as the join. Sc in the next 4 or so sts. Then pull on the grey and black tails until the little beginning bump of the join disappears, and the color change is practically unnoticeable (see photos below). Continue to sc in each st around. Slst to join. Cut off excess tail ends (20 sc)

Rnd 24: Ch1 and sc in the same st. Sc in the next 19 sts.  Reverse Slst join. (20 sc)

Note: You will be changing colors here in a non-traditional way.

Rnd 25: Ch1 and sc in the same st. Sc in each st around. Use the Invisible Join to fasten off. (20 sc) Weave in the beginning tail from MC in Rnd 1.

Button:

Rnd 1: With Red WWY, In a MC work: ch 1 and 10 hdc. Leave a long tail for sewing and then use the Invisible Join to fasten off. (10 hdc) Weave in beginning tail.

Assembly:

Place the red button on the middle front of the cozy, and sew it on. Cut off excess yarn.

Enjoy your hands staying warm and dry with your icy treat; and May the Fourth be with You!

Thank you for viewing this pattern by Ashley Bower, owner of Looping with Love!  You may sell any cozies made from this pattern, but you may not sell, share, or distribute any or part of this pattern’s written content and/or photos. You Must use your Own photos to advertise and sell your items.

When selling your items online, please give credit for the pattern, and link back to Looping with Love at: www.facebook.com/LoopingWithLove

How to do a Crochet Invisible Join

Here is how I finish off my crochet projects.  The Invisible Join can be used whether to finish off a round or a row, but I mainly use it for when I'm working in a round.  Finishing off your work this way gives your piece a seamless and endless look, without an unsightly knot or bump that clearly gives away your seam.  This video Also shows you how I secure my magic circle and hide that beginning tail.  

If you like this tutorial, then please leave a comment below, or subscribe to my YouTube channel. I'd love to see your work that you've done using this method!  Happy Hooking!