Thursday, May 15, 2014

0-6 month Some Bunny Loves Me Beanie

We're finally hopping into Spring, and what better way to start off the season but with a FREE pattern! My gift to you this April is a: 

0-6 month Some Bunny Loves Me Beanie

0-6 month Some Bunny Loves Me Beanie

An Original Bunny Beanie
By: Ashley Bower, owner of
Looping with Love
Copyright © Ashley Bower 2014
All Rights Reserved.

Federal copyright law prohibits unauthorized reproduction by any means, and imposes fines up to $25,000 for violation.

This pattern is registered and protected by copyright. All material (including all of the written pattern, photographs, and videos) may not be altered, reproduced, shared, and/or published in print or electronic form without consent from the designer;
Ashley Bower, owner of
Looping with Love.

This material is intended for private use only. Permission to sell and photograph your completed items is granted with this pattern.
All techniques and finished sizes are listed in US terminology.

Skill Level: Intermediate

Materials Needed:

Size 6, Super Bulky Yarn: I used Lion Brand Yarn’s Hometown USA
(OR double stranding Worsted Weight Yarn, size 4, will also work)

N (10.00mm) and P (11.5mm) crochet hooks


Measuring Tape

Tapestry Needle

Optional: Floral Wire OR Pipe Cleaners (to create bendable ears)

Optional: Contrasting Super Bulky Yarn – size 6 (to create an inner ear, and hide the floral wire)

Abbreviation of Stitches and Special Terms Used:

Ch/Chs: Chain/Chains

Extended Cross-Over Sc: Extended cross-over single crochet: insert your hook into the stitch indicated, yarn over and pull up the loop to equal height of the half double crochet just made in the previous stitch, yarn over and pull through both loops on the hook.

Foundation Dc: Foundation Double Crochet: chain 3, yarn over and insert hook into the 1st chain made, yarn over and pull up loop (3 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through the first loop on the hook. Yarn over and pull through the first 2 loops on the hook. Yarn over and pull through both loops on hook.

Gauge: what your indicated worked stitches should measure. This pattern measures gauge straight across the middle (diameter) closed circle of a Round. Gauge is given after Rounds 1 and 2. Make sure your stitches worked are riding stitches to obtain correct gauge.

HDC: Half Double Crochet

Invisible Join:  is used to fasten off the last round of an item, and make it appear seamless to the naked eye. If you have never used this stitch, then refer to my tutorial video here:  

MC: Magic Circle

Rnd/Rnds: Round/rounds

Slst: Slip Stitch

St/Sts: Stitch/stitches

[ X ] #x = work that stitch or pattern a multiple of what the # states. Each stitch that is separated by a comma will be worked in the next stitch.

( X ) = final stitch count for that round

YO: Yarn Over

Where to Find Looping with Love:
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0-6 Month Beanie: With P (11.5mm) Hook:
Measures: 15” in circumference, 5” in length
NOTE:  Beginning chain does Not count as a stitch in the stitch count for the beanie.

Rnd 1: In MC, ch1 and work 12 hdc. Slst in the 1st hdc to join. (12 hdc)

Gauge: 2” in diameter

Rnd 2: Ch1 and hdc in the Next st. Working in the st just skipped; insert your hook into the st, YO and pull up the loop to equal height of the hdc just made, YO and pull through both loops on the hook: first extended cross-over sc completed. [Hdc in the next open unused st, then in the st to the right (which already has a hdc in it) work an extended cross-over sc]10x. In the slst from the previous round work a hdc, then in the st to the right (which already has a hdc in it) work an extended cross-over sc. Slst in the 1st hdc to join. (12 hdc, 12 extended cross-over sc = 24 sts)

Gauge: 4” in diameter

Rnds 3-7: Ch1 and hdc in the Next st. In the st skipped, work an extended cross-over sc. [skip a st, hdc in the next st. In the skipped st, work an extended cross-over sc]11x. Slst in the 1st hdc to join. (12 hdc, 12 extended cross-over sc = 24sts)

Measure of length from the crown to the brim of the hat: approx. 5” long.

Use an Invisible Join to secure the hat, weave in loose ends.

Outer Ear (Make 2): With N hook:

Row 1: Ch3 and work 12 foundation dc. Ch 1 and Turn. (12 foundation dc, 3 chs)

Rnd 1: Working on the Wrong Side of the foundation ch: sc in the first 12 sts, work 2sc in the middle of the beginning ch3 from Row 1 (see photo 1), then rotate your work to continue working on the other side of Row 1 and over the beginning tail (see photo 2): sc in the next 12 sts. Rotate the ear again, and slst twice (see photo 3) into the last foundation dc made in Row 1.  Leave a long tail for sewing, and then work 

an Invisible Join in the Ch1 from the end of Row 1. (26 sc, 2 slsts)

NOTE:  If you would rather have ears that bend and/or are able to stick straight up in the air, then you’ll need a small amount of floral wire or pipe cleaners, and contrasting yarn to create an inner ear to attach to the outer ear, and hide the wire.

Inner Ear (Make 2): With N hook and Contrasting Super Bulky Yarn:

Row 1: Ch 3 and 10 foundation dc. Leave a very long tail 15” or more) for sewing and Fasten Off. Weave in the ch tail. (12 foundation dc, 3 chs)

Take your pipe cleaner or floral wire, and measure it out to 10” long and snip off any extra length. Bend your pipe cleaner or floral wire in half, and place it in the middle of the outer ear (see photo below). Then place the inner ear on top of the pipe cleaner/floral wire. So your stitches won’t show through the backside of the ear, I suggest using a mattress stitch in between the outer ear sts and under both top loops of each st of the inner ear.

Attaching Ear Pieces: The ch 3 will automatically curve, that end should be placed towards the top of the ear, and the last foundation dc should be placed at the base of the ear. The wrong side of the inner ear will be facing the right side of the outer ear, so the wrong side of the outer ear will be towards the back of the hat once attached. To avoid the two pieces from moving from where you positioned them, I suggest using stitch markers (lobster claws, bobby pins, safety pins, etc.) at the top and bottom of where the inner ear is to keep it in place. I also suggest using the mattress stitch when attaching the inner ear to the outer ear, to avoid stitching showing on the backside of the ear. Once the base of the inner ear is just above the outer ear’s top loops on the base, start securing the inner ear to the outer ear by sewing through the outer ear’s stitches, and through the inner ear to avoid stitches being noticeable on the backside of the ear.

Attaching Ears to the Hat:  I suggest attaching the ears to the hat while the hat is on a flat surface, like a table.  Find the side creases, and attach the base of the ear to the top of Rnd 2, and to the bottom of Rnd 3 of the beanie.


Thank you for viewing this pattern by Ashley Bower, owner of Looping with Love!  You may sell any hats made from this pattern, but you may not sell, share, or distribute any or part of this pattern’s written content and/or photos. 
You Must use your Own photos to advertise and sell your items.

When selling your items online, please give credit for the pattern, and link back to Looping with Love at:

This pattern has been tested to ensure proper fit and gauge. If you notice any mistakes, or have questions or concerns about the pattern, then please feel free to contact me on Facebook, or email me at

Happy Hooking :-)

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